Three dishes of gel, cream, and balm on travertine

Humectants, emollients, and occlusives

Three jobs moisturizer ingredients do.

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What a moisturizer does

The AAD moisturizer guide says moisturizer works by putting moisture into the skin and preventing water from leaving it. A 2020 AAD guidance document on skin care for health care workers says "almost all topical moisturizing products available on the market contain a combination of emollients, occlusive ingredients, and humectants."

Humectants

A humectant is an ingredient that draws in and holds water. The AAD names glycerin and hyaluronic acid as humectants.

Emollients

An emollient is an ingredient that softens the skin. The AAD moisturizer guide says emollients in moisturizers keep your skin soft and smooth.

Occlusives

An occlusive is an ingredient that forms a layer on the skin to hold water in. The AAD names mineral oil and petrolatum as occlusives.

Lipids like ceramides

The AAD lists lipids, such as ceramides, as their own group alongside humectants and occlusives. Our ceramides guide covers them.

Finding them on the label

The FDA says cosmetic ingredients must be declared in descending order of predominance, and that ingredients at one percent or less may be listed in any order. The list gives names, not amounts.

Moisturizer ingredient groups. Examples the AAD names.

Sources: AAD, 4 skin care tips for your hands; American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), How to pick the right moisturizer for your skin; AAD, Preventing and treating occupationally induced dermatologic conditions during COVID-19 (PDF, 2020, for health care workers); FDA, Summary of Cosmetics Labeling Requirements.

FAQ

Does a moisturizer need all three?

We have no source that says every moisturizer needs all three. The 2020 AAD guidance document on skin care for health care workers says almost all moisturizing products contain a combination of them.

Will the label say "humectant" or "occlusive"?

No. An ingredient list gives ingredient names, such as glycerin or petrolatum, not the job each one does.

General information, not medical advice. Before you use a new skin care product on your face, the American Academy of Dermatology suggests testing it on a small spot of skin, such as the bend of your elbow, twice a day for seven to 10 days. If your skin reacts, wash the product off and do not use it again. Follow the directions and warnings on the label. See a doctor or dermatologist about a rash, a skin reaction that does not go away, or any skin condition. If you have signs of a severe allergic reaction, such as shortness of breath or trouble swallowing, call 911.

A glass dropper releasing a drop of clear gel

Hyaluronic acid, explained

A humectant, explained.

A dollop of ivory cream beside an open jar

Ceramides, explained

Waxy lipids, explained.

A plain jar, a blank carton, and a magnifying glass

Reading a moisturizer label

Order, Drug Facts, fragrance.

Next: hyaluronic acid